Xochimilco, Mexico City, November 2012

A taxi from the tren ligero station at Xochimilco disqualifies this trip from the 10,000 Birds Year List, but I am feeling confident that the race is all sewn up, barring a late rush from Duncan. My colleague, JP had joined me again in a more demure outfit and was astonished to see our first Vermillion Flycatcher of the day. But then, Vermillion Flycatchers are astonishing birds especially when you see them for the first time. Maybe they should be written in red for every sighting.

 

There was cause for the red pen today as JP pointed out a brown bird disappearing into the reeds. He found it again and we were able to identify it as a King Rail. 

We started by the Visitor Centre and racked up a good number of birds before popping in to pay our entrance fee. (25 Pesos @20 Pesos = £1). I obtained a free permit which must be displayed at all times when carrying an obtrusive camera. Wilson’s Warbler, Yellow-rumped Warbler, and Common Yellow-throat were seen by the water’s edge of the big lake on the right. House Finch and Canyon Towhee fed from the ground in the rose garden between the entrance gate and the Visitor Centre.

 

Behind the Visitors’ Centre, a path leads onto a wooden walkway that heads out across the reed-lined lake. Most of the day’s herons, Great Blue Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret and Green Heron, were found along the edge of the reeds in small numbers. On the second walkway, we had to wait for a Snowy Egret to move along before going across and enjoying a close look at a Pied-billed Grebe.

 

The Blue-faced Darner Aeshna multicolor were flying in lower numbers today than I had seen previously, but they hovered conveniently, just long enough to allow me to get focus.

 

Vermillion Flycatchers were obvious and common as were the Cassin’s Kingbirds that hawked from perches overlooking newly cut meadows.

 

We encountered an opossum as we came back round to the road, but only now I find that there are many forms in South and Central America, so I will have to come back to you when I have reduced it to species level. I tried to circle round and get a photograph that avoided tarmac as a backdrop at which point the animal keeled over and died.

 

We were exploring the grass and looking at hoppers and spiders when JP pointed out a brown bird which had flushed from nearby and was disappearing into the reeds by a small bridge. It looked exciting and we left the insects to have a look. JP found it again, creeping slowly through the tangle of reeds and we were able to discount Virginia Rail and identify it as a King Rail.

We didn’t quite close the circle back at the Visitor’s Centre, but turned up towards the barge quay. Gaily painted barges take trippers out onto the main lake and we were ruing the clock today as our time was limited. The lake was very active with a large flock of waders, plenty of ducks and herons in greater numbers than the rest of the reserve.

The waders were Long-billed Dowitchers (but I reserve the right to change my mind at any time without prejudice) with a couple of Black-necked Stilt and Killdeer thrown in. Ducks included American Wigeon, Northern Shoveler and Cinnamon Teal. A Vermillion Flycatcher continually dropped onto the water hyacinth in front of us to pick insects from the floating weed.

An Osprey flew over in a clumsy attempt to catch fish. Its approach was text-book with talons extended, but the plunge appeared to be inexperienced as the bird ended up deep in the water each time and had to fight its way back into the air. Perhaps its intended prey was deep beneath the surface.

 

A Peregrine added to the excitement across the lake. Clouds of American Avocet and Black-winged Stilts rose from the shallows as the falcon made passes across the lake. It spotted a bird with a weakness and returned time after time, skimming across the surface trying to catch it, but all the action was very distant and we could not see whether it was successful. In the confusion, some peeps were flushed, but they were too distant for me to identify. I suspect that they were Least Sandpipers.

 

A trip out on the barges would have brought us much closer to where the birds were resting, but I could not say whether our approach would scare them off (there is a tourist area of Xochimilco Town where barges carry trippers around the canals accompanied by mariachi bands. I assume that these barges, despite their bright colours are more discreet). Given more time, it would have been possible to have circled around the barge lagoon and found a better vantage further up the lake, but the clock was running down and we had to start making tracks towards home. A Buff-bellied Flycatcher sat well in a bank-side willow.

We followed the edge of the lake for a while before cutting back to the path with the arches that leads back to the main gate.

Some taxi drivers seem unsure of exactly where the Parque Ecologico de Xochimilco is. The odd tower near the gate can be used to confirm that you have arrived at the right place.

We took the Metro train to Tasquena (3 Pesos each) at the end of the Blue Line. From there we caught the Tren Ligero to its last stop at Xochimilco (also 3 Pesos one way).

 

On our return, we crossed the road using the footbridge (here we found another odd tower very similar to the one at the entrance to the parque, but it is unlikely to be confused) and caught a taxi that took us to Tren Ligero station, Periferico. It is closer to the park, but a taxi rank was not obvious at Periferico station. Taxis cost between 40 and 60 Pesos.

Birds seen; 44

American Wigeon 40, Cinnamon Teal 10, Northern Shoveler 15, Green-winged Teal 20, Ring-necked Duck 1, Pied-billed Grebe 8, American White Pelican 5, Great Blue Heron 8, Great Egret 10, Snowy Egret 4, Green Heron 2, Black-crowned Night Heron 2, White-faced Ibis 3, Turkey Vulture 4, Osprey 1, Red-tailed Hawk 1, American Kestrel 1, King Rail 1, Common Gallinule 15, American Coot 100, Killdeer 6, Black-necked Stilt 120, American Avocet 40, Long-billed Dowitcher 150, Mourning Dove 4, Inca Dove 4, Buff-breasted Flycatcher 2, Black Phoebe 1, Vermillion Flycatcher 15, Tropical Kingbird 1, Cassin’s Kingbird 15, Marsh Wren 3, Blue-grey Gnatcatcher 1, Ruby-crowned Kinglet 1, Curve-billed Thrasher 2, Common Yellow-throat 1, Yellow-rumped Warbler 12, Wilson’s Warbler 3, Canyon Towhee 4, Song Sparrow 4, Red-winged Blackbird 2, Great-tailed Grackle 6, House Finch 25.

 

Other posts from Xochimilco can be seen at the links below;

http://redgannet.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/parque-ecologico-de-xochimilco-mexico_2239.html

http://redgannet.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/parque-ecologico-de-xochimilco-pex.html

http://redgannet.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/if-anyone-has-time-and-inclination-i.html

Visit the dedicated Central and South American Page for more posts from Mexico including UNAM Botanical Gardens and Bosque de Tlalpan

Desierto de Los Leones, Mexico City, November 2012

My colleague JP joined me today for a trip to the pine/oak forests of Desierto de Los Leones in the mountains above Mexico City. It was a quiet day in the forest, but I cannot say whether an exciting earthquake early that morning had dampened the birds’ appetites, or J’s hi-vis shorts had scared them off. Red warblers still proved to be reliable and were seen in each party along with Mexican Chickadee and Ruby-crowned Kinglet. The number of parties was much reduced from my previous visits and each feeding flock was smaller with fewer species.

It was cold when the taxi dropped us at a mountain hut approximately 2.5kms along the road (Google Earth ref; 19°18'18.83"N 99°18'29.80"W), but less than a kilometre southeast across the valley from the Carmelite convent. The sun was just touching the tops of the trees across the valley, but the road remained shaded and gloomy. Our priorities were set by being chilly and underdressed.

The first party, with the Red Warbler, Mexican Chickadee and Ruby-crowned Warbler stalwarts, was augmented by a Hairy Woodpecker and a Brown Creeper. The distinctive call of the Brown-backed Solitaire jangled back and forth across the valley, but the birds could not be seen. I had assured J that they were fairly common and we would probably find one later, but despite hearing it numerous times, we never managed to pin one down.
 

A stream passes under the road and we were surprised to find the area quite devoid of bird life. We had reached a section of road blessed by the weak morning sun and we were able to stop for a while as J’s flip-flopped toes came back to life. We reached the convent as one of the cafés opened for business and we stopped to warm up for a while. I should have learned my lesson from last time when a large breakfast reduced my capacity for lung expansion in the thin atmosphere at 3000m, but having Sherpa J along to carry the brick-like field guide was a big help.

 

A path leads uphill from the convent, past the hermitages, for about 1km before meeting an unmade road. The sun had a chance to light some of the birds here which were feeding in lower branches. Even so, they remained aloof and photos had to be taken through the leaves and branches. A Slaty-throated Redstart proved to be the most accommodating of them all.
 

We returned to the convent and continued downhill via a path to the left of the building as we approached it. This area often gives up a Green-striped Brush-finch as it did today. Further down a small party included a Crescent-chested Parula and a Golden-browed Warbler.

The path eventually leads down to a village and a junction with a road on which a taxi can be readily found. Keep to the right at the first junction and go straight across onto the cobbled road at the stream crossing. The village and neighbourhood at the bottom of the hill did not give us cause to fear for our safety, but the descent is remote and lonely. It took approximately 3 hours from the convent by the time we stopped for a bowl of soup at a café on the lower slopes (Google Earth ref; 19°19'51.20"N 99°18'6.24"W).

 

If a visitor elects not to follow the path down from the convent, then they will have to arrange an alternative way home. Taxis pass through during the day, but not regularly and it would be as well not to have to depend on one chancing by. 

Birds seen; 13

 Acorn Woodpecker 2, Hairy Woodpecker 1, Mexican Chickadee 12, Brown Creeper 3, Golden-crowned Kinglet 1, Ruby-crowned Kinglet 12, American Robin 6, Crescent-chested Warbler 1, Golden-browed Warbler 3, Red Warbler 10, Slate-throated Redstart 4, Green-striped Brush-finch 1, Yellow-eyed Junco 8

For a previous post from Desierto deLos Leones, follow the link below;

Visit the dedicated Central and SouthAmerica Page for more posts from the area, including Parque Ecológico de Xochimilco and UNAM Botanical gardens.

Bosque de Tlalpan, Mexico City, Aug 2011

At the second time of asking, I made it to Bosque de Tlalpan (Google ref; 19 17’ 46”N 99 11’ 34”W) to the south, just outside the Anillo Periferico ring road enclosing Mexico City. After some confusion yesterday, today I was armed with a mental map and a street name, so was able to direct the taxi driver from Universidad Metro Station to the junction at Zacatapetl and Camino a Santa Teresa at a cost of just 20 Pesos (@20 = £1). The bosque may also be known as Parque Nacionale de Pedregal, Tlalpan.

After the marathon on Sunday, I had hoped that the Mexican joggers would have had enough, but the entrance to the park was choked with runners warming up before or cooling down after laps on the specially prepared track.

 Keeping to the right, I was able to get away from the worst of the excitement and quickly found a much quieter route. A tarmac road, heading west-south-west, steeply up the hill, had a couple of side tracks which led away from the alien eucalypts and into much more productive scrubby, rocky slopes.

Venturing along the lower path for a short way produced Grey Silky Flycatchers, Buff-breasted Flycatcher, Western Wood-pewee and a Rufous-crowned Sparrow.

The paths were lined with flowers on this last Tuesday of August and I was surprised to find only 2 Berylline Hummingbirds. Rufous-capped Brush-finches were very vocal with their hard, staccato chipping and a similar call with a trill at the end proved to be the pish-prone Rufous-capped Warbler. I was quite excited to find this bird as I didn’t recall seeing it before and was ready to write him up in red when I got home, until I found that I had previously seen him in his other form as a Chestnut-capped Warbler from Costa Rica.

The upper path led me to the north and ran along the razor-wired boundary wall. In a small patch of forest a feeding party passed through consisting of Black-throated Grey warbler, Bushtit and more Rufous-capped Warblers. There was still the occasional jogger or walker, but I was getting enough time between passers-by to enjoy the quiet. Six Flags, beyond the wall, was ominously quiet and I must assume that it was shut (either for the day or forevermore).

The coarse scold of the Bewick’s Wren was audible through much of the forest and they responded quickly to pishing.

I turned back towards the entrance which was easy enough to find just by heading downhill. A few more species were seen along the way with a Slate-throated Redstart putting in an appearance at last. This stunningly beautiful flower above was found on the descent in the pine forest and I think that this is a Mexican Gray Squirrel (Sciurus aureogaster) with his bright rufous markings above and below. There are also black individuals in the park.

Species seen; 18

Berylline Hummingbird 2, Buff-breasted Flycatcher 1, Western Wood-pewee 4, Grey Silky Flycatcher 20, Bewick’s Wren 5, Blue-grey Gnatcatcher 1, Bushtit 6, White-breasted Nuthatch 1, House Sparrow 25, Lesser Goldfinch 6, Olive Warbler 1, Black-throated Grey Warbler 1, Slate-throated Redstart 1, Rufous-capped Warbler 8, Rufous-capped Brush-finch 4, Canyon Towhee 4, Rufous-crowned Sparrow 1, Black-headed Grosbeak 1.

Bosque de Tlalpan, Parque Nacionale de Pedregal, Tlalpan, Mexico City

Ajusco, Mexico City, August 2011.

My problem this morning was a taxi driver that could not find the Bosque de Tlalpan. Perhaps it was my poor Spanish pronunciation, but for some reason, he was unable to find a park, almost the size of Belgium, within 3 miles of the Universidad Metro station.

After some time, we gave up and I noticed that the volcano in the distance was free from cloud so I pointed and asked him to take me there instead. The weather has been very changeable, so when the opportunity of a clear mountain was there, I decided to take it. Of course I was not prepared for the mountains and it proved to be a chilly day on the volcano.

Parque Nacional Cumbres del Ajusco was pencilled into my plans for later in the trip in an attempt to verify my 15-year-old sighting of a Sierra Madre Sparrow. Back then, I had headed into the mountain with no particular plans and stopped, willy nilly, as the fancy took me. I saw the sparrow and identified it from 'Peterson's Guide to the Birds of Mexico', but only later realised that the guide was not complete and did not include Song Sparrow or Savannah Sparrow, for example, to compare with the Sierra Madre Sparrow. 15 years ago, I was a very keen, but green birder and though I was happy with the identification at the time, I was not really familiar enough with any of the subsequent candidates to state categorically, with hindsight, that my identification was correct. Over the years I have come to wonder how reliable my sighting might have been. As we headed upwards, I began to realise that 15 years may be a short time in the geological life of a mountain, but human occupation can dramatically alter the appearance and access in the same period. I was unable to find the site where I had seen the sparrow, but one area that looked familiar had been over-run with paintball and wargames adventure playgrounds. The roads above this were lined with high chain-link fences and 'Propriedad Privado' signs which, even with my fractured Spanish, meant 'Keep Out'.

Rufous-capped Brush-finch

We took the right hand fork at the junction and continued up the slope to kilometre mark 18.5 (Google Earth ref; 19 13' 29"N 99 05' 40"W). There were some cabañas here with access to the forest behind them. I gave the driver a few dollars and suggested that he had a coffee while he waited. He insisted on being paid the full fare which I did, then, to emphasise the fact that I wanted him to wait, gave him a few more dollars again for a coffee while I looked in the forest beyond the cabaña. It was with a sinking heart and the realisation that it was more likely my Spanish than his geography that had caused the earlier problem, that I watched as he set off down the mountain without me.

Note; there is no transport available to return to town from this side of the mountain.

I explored the degraded area behind the cabaña which produced some Yellow-eyed Junco, a Red Warbler and a Southern House Wren. Although the mountain was free from mist, it was still overcast and the birds remained in the gloom of the shadows. It was clear now that my driver had no intention of returning, so, having seen what was available downhill, I decided to try my luck along the road uphill. Almost straight away, a bird party appeared including Red Warbler, Olive Warbler, Golden-crowned Kinglet and Brown Creeper.

At the entrance to the Rancho Kavana (19kms) another party added Rufous-capped Brush-finch and Mexican Chickadees. More parties as I continued up the road brought Spotted Towhee and Golden-browed Warblers .

It was a little tiring, but I assumed that I was not as high as Desierto de los Leones, in the mountains to the north-west.

Actually, Google Earth suggests that the section of road that I covered climbs from 3150 - 3365m ( 10,240 - 10,935ft), while the convent is at 3000m (9,750ft).

Any open, flat piece of ground held Yellow-eyed Juncos and I was able to watch them as I enjoyed the speciality of the house at Cabaña Vicky at km 21.5 (Google Earth ref; 19 13' 45"N 99 16' 03"W). Opposite is a road that leads up to the Communidad de San Miguel and Sta Thomas. The habitat changes from here with tussocks of grass beneath more widely spaced evergreen trees. This reminded me of the environment in which I had found the sparrow all those years ago and at last I was able to follow a trail into the wilds and away from the road.

The trail ran close to a mountain stream and cut off a long corner before returning to the road which I continued to follow upwards. More parties contained Northern Flicker, Bushtits and a Hermit Warbler before I decided that it must be time to start heading down. I had seen no buses or taxis on the road, only a few private cars and very noisy lorries labouring up the hill and ploughing recklessly down again.

I tried to cut down through the tussock grass forest on the other side of the sream and saw some Western Bluebirds and very brightly coloured House Finches on the way, but ultimately had to make an ungainly scramble back across the stream to access the original up path.

I was surprised by the numbers of Olive Warbler and am ashamed not to have got a decent photograph given all the opportunities, but I was pleased to finally get a shot at the skulky Green-lined Brush-finch.

 When I reached the cabañas at km 18.5 where I had last seen the taxi driver, I finally accepted that I would never see him again and started to hitch-hike. The second vehicle picked me up and I squeezed into an already cramped truck cab for the ride down the mountain. I do not recommend this as a plan to set out with, but it was my only choice bar a long walk. Although I am sure that one of the cabañas would have been generous enough to call a cab, not many were open and as winter approaches I suspect they would be less reliable and cabs would be even less inclined to venture up the hill for a pick-up.

Mexican Chickadee

Species seen; 21

Hairy Woodpecker 1, Northern Flicker 1, Southern House Wren 4, Western Bluebird 4, Golden-crowned Kinglet 25, Ruby-crowned Kinglet 1, Bushtit 15, Mexican Chickadee 25, White-breasted Nuthatch 1, Brown Creeper 7, Steller’s Jay 7, House Finch 6, Lesser Goldfinch 2, Olive Warbler 12, Hermit Warbler 1, Red Warbler 15, Golden-browed Warbler 6, Rufous-capped Brush-finch 8, Green-striped Brush-finch 2, Spotted Towhee 8, Yellow-eyed Junco 40

Ajusco, Mexico City

Parque Ecologico de Xochimilco, PEX, August 2011

In a lot of Redgannet posts there is an issue that either holds me up and makes me late, or prevents me from reaching my intended destination. Mostly the reason is beer, but this morning I was prevented from crossing the street to get to the Metro station by the national marathon and as far as the eye could see, were thousands of prime Mexicans on the hoof.

Once I arrived in Tasqueña I hired a taxi, the driver of which looked suspiciously like Muammar Gadaffi, but he found the Parque Ecologico de Xochimilco (Google earth ref; 19 17’ 49”N 99 05’ 40”W) without too much trouble. I obtained my camera permit from the Informacion Center and started out in a clockwise direction. On the first body of water, a Ruddy Duck was displaying by flicking his bill up and down against his chest. A Tricoloured Heron was up to its belly stalking fish and an American Coot was keeping a watchful eye on a tiny chick.

The parque was much busier on this Sunday at the end of August than it had been during my previous visit. The childrens' play areas had been mowed and people were cycling and walking, but there was still plenty of room for everybody.

A Green Heron was hoping that it's camouflage would render it invisible and it might have done were it not for the reflection on the water.

Most commonly seen birds today were the Great-tailed Grackles, Barn Swallows and Lesser Goldfinches, but the most common dragonfly, the Blue-faced Darner, was seen by the hundred all around the reserve.

Bridges crossing narrow necks of the lakes provided a perfect vantage point to try to get some inflight pictures.

Among the Canyon Towhees was this individual showing a marked degree of albinism.

I followed the path north and it seemed that the parque joined up with the working and tourist canals for which Xochimilco is famed. Out on the big water, Black-crowned Night Herons, Great and Snowy Egrets were fishing while Back-bellied Whistling Ducks and Mexican Mallards roosted on a small reed island. Far out in the centre, a flock of roosting Black-necked Stilts held a single American Avocet while some Wilson's Phalaropes spun circles on the water. A couple of Western Sandpipers found some mud closer to the shore until a Yellow-crowned Night Heron flushed them off after a particularly showy landing.

I had found a clear spot by the bank and sat watching the birds and the thousands of fish. A strange ripple on the water called my attention to a small snake that made a couple of sorties out into the water from the bankside vegetaion. It looked to be trying to catch fish from under the noses of the herons. It was a short thin creature perhaps 80cms at best.

I cannot even start to guess what the snake might be called, so as ever, I invite suggestions on a postcard please.

On the way back to the exit at the end of the day a cuckoo flew ahead of me, settling on a branch over the path. In the gloom of a cloudy afternoon, promising rain, it was difficult to see well, but the bill is quite substantial and it has a yellowish eyering. I believe it to be a young, black-billed, Yellow-billed Cuckoo.

There was a lifer today in the shape of a Black-backed Oriole. It was a decent view, but a lousy photograph as I was prostrate on the path at the time taking a picture of this ode for whom I do not yet have a name. Again,send those suggestions on a postcard please.We have a winner! Thanks to Jason for the ID of a Variegated Meadowhawk.

Species seen; 41

To find Parque Ecologico de Xochimilco (PEX), take the Blue line (Line 1) to the farthest point at Tasqueña. The taxi ride from here should cost less than 30 Pesos (at 20 Pesos = 1).

Pied-billed Grebe 2, Great Blue Heron 1, Great Egret 60, Tricoloured Heron 2, Snowy Egret 15, Green Heron 10, Yellow-crowned Night Heron 2, Black-crowned Night Heron 6, White-faced Ibis 3, Black-bellied Whistling Duck 6, Mexican Mallard 12, Ruddy Duck 4, Cooper’s Hawk 1, Common Moorhen 15, American Coot 25, Black-necked Stilt 60, American Avocet 1, Kildeer 2, Spotted Sandpiper 2, Western Sandpiper 2, Wilson’s Phalarope 15, Mourning Dove 30, Common Ground Dove 4, Inca Dove 2, Yellow-billed Cuckoo 1, Vermillion Flycatcher 4, Cassin’s Kingbird 2, American Barn Swallow 4, Marsh Wren 4, Curve-billed Thrasher 1, House Sparrow 20, House Finch 30, Lesser Goldfinch 60, Yellow Warbler 1, Common Yellowthroat 1, Canyon Towhee 15, Song Sparrow 8, Blue Grosbeak 15, Red-winged Blackbird 1, Great-tailed Grackle 30, Black-tailed Oriole 1

(Google earth ref; 19 17’ 49”N 99 05’ 40”W Anillo Perifericao (Blvd; Adolfo Ruiz Cortines)

Details of a previous visit to Xochimilco can be found here
http://redgannet.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/if-anyone-has-time-and-inclination-i.html
http://redgannet.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/xochimilco-mexico-city-november-2012.html

Other posts from in and around Mexico City may be found below;

http://redgannet.blogspot.com/2010/09/des.html

http://redgannet.blogspot.com/2010/09/unam-botanical-gardens-mexico-city.html
 

Parque Ecologico de Xochimilco, PEX, August 2011