Stone Mountain Park

This was to be my first visit to the Peach State of Georgia. My visit to Atlanta, would allow me a full morning and I wanted to make good use of it. My friend and colleague, G.L., had provided me with some potential sites to visit, I had picked one and was on my way.
MARTA (the Atlanta public transport provider, $2.25 train, $1.75 bus one way)( www.itsmarta.com )is clean and easy to use. Once on the platform at Peachtree Centre, I noticed a large map which showed the train lines and all the buses that connected with them. Out to the West of the city was a large patch of green that was serviced by buses 120 and 118. This green area was marked as Stone Mountain Park. I had seen this from the plane during our approach to ATL and had hoped to find out some more about it.
Atlanta is surrounded by forests and leafy suburbs, but Stone Mountain Park stood out on account of the great big stone mountain in it. The single rock, reportedly the biggest lump of grey granite in the world, measures 5 miles around and rises 630 feet above the surrounding area.
As I am often prone to do, I changed my mind and my plan for the day, in favour of a trip to Stone Mountain Park.
I alighted at (MARTA) Avondale and linked with the 120 bus which runs every 40-50 mins(even on a Sunday), and took 30 mins to make the journey to Stone Mountain City. The title City may have been mis-used in this case. Stone Mountain City is a touristy village in truth with a Park'n Ride on 4th St. From 4th St bus stop, continue North for 100m and turn right onto East Mountain Rd. 400m ahead are the railing gates which open into the carpark at the West end of the monolith. www.stonemountainpark.org
At 08.00 on a saturday morning, the carpark was already full and people were jogging and cycling around the 5 mile perimeter road. Many of these people should not have been jogging and 3 ambulances were standing by outside the gates. Atlanta's nickname is the city that is too busy to hate. What, I wondered, would happen on a Saturday morning when they had a bit of time on their hands?
I felt my way around the park, picking out a couple of likely looking areas from the site map. I shall describe the route I took, but bear in mind that I will recommend a different way round at the end of the piece. The map as shown above indicated a Nature Trail and a Songbird Area. These spots were best reached by setting off around the Perimeter Road in an anticlockwise direction.The Nature Trail was clearly marked after less than a mile. Once off the road and away from the joggers,walkers and wheezers, I quickly ran into some birds. Nothing spectacular, cardinals, gnatcatchers, and towhees, but at least I was in the woods. A large party of Carolina Chickadees passed through, accompanied by a couple of Tufted Titmice and a Ruby-throated Hummingbird.
Black-capped Chickadees range into Georgia along the Great Smoky Mountains. Their southern limit reaches nearly to Atlanta, but I don't think they quite make it to Stone Mountain. The 2 species of chickadee are very alike so I was pleased to hear the Carolinas confirming their identity in song which is faster and higher than that of the Black-capped.
The Nature Trail forms a loop that connects to the Cherokee Trail. I followed the Cherokee Trail back across the road (the joggers were thinning out by now) and continued through the forest largely composed of Hickory, Beech and White Oak. Shortly, I reached a lake over which some Northern Rough-winged Swallows swooped while a Great Blue Heron preened on a snag by the far bank. A pair of Downy Woodpeckers fed a hungry chick and a Northern Cardinal called from high above. Carolina Wrens called from some low thickets.
The Cherokee Trail looped around the back of another lake before returning to tarmac on a spur road. I followed this road towards my second interesting spot, the Songbird Area. Just before I reached it, I was sidetracked by the Kentucky Picnic site. In here, I met the only other birder of the day. Paul kindly showed me a way through the picnic area to a platform overlooking a meadow. This was once the velodrome and archery area for the Olympics in 1996. Now it had been reclaimed for the birds. Sure enough there were some Blue Jays, American Goldfinches, Eastern Phoebe and to my delight, a lifer for me, some Eastern Bluebirds.
The bluebirds were chasing the jays between the trees dotted in the meadowand would not sit for a picture. Only one sat still long enough on a high, distant perch in a dead tree, just showing it's red breast.
The songbird area also has a looping trail which takes one out into the meadow and then into some younger pines. The banked sides of the meadow held Brown Thrasher and Grey Catbird. The trees held Brown-headed Cowbirds, Tufted Titmice and gnatcatchers.
We cut back across the road to rejoin the Cherokee Trail. I left Paul here and doubled back along the base of the Stone Mountain. Paul had told me that Brown-headed Nuthatches were to be seen in the stands of pine growing in clumps on the rock. The Cherokee Trail skirts over the lower Western end of the dome and the Nuthatches are said to be common here.
By now the temperature was up beyond the mid-80's. I didn't much fancy climbing up onto the rock where there was very little shade, but the Brown-headed Nuthatch was a target bird for the trip. Mercifully, the climb was not too strenuous and I had topped up my water content at a conveniently placed water fountain. The pine clumps were made up of short, stunted trees and I was feeling confident, but I missed the nuthatch.
For my next visit I will try a different route. I will start from the gates at the West end of the rock. From here the Up Trail leads in an easterly direction, up the mountain at an acceptable gradient. After a short way, The Cherokee Trail crosses the Up Trail. This is supposed to be the Brown-headed Nuthatch's favoured territory and I think an earlier visit would give me a better chance next time. The Cherokee Trail connects to the Nature Trail and from here, and the previously described route can be re-adopted for the rest of the morning.
After leaving the park and returning to Stone Mountain City, I saw Chimney swifts and a Red-headed Woodpecker. The 118 bus from the Marta Park'n Ride goes to (MARTA) Kensington.

Full sightings 34 species.
Great Blue Heron 1, Canada Goose 8, Turkey Vulture 8, Red-tailed Hawk 2 enroute, Mourning Dove 20, Rubythroated Hummingbird 1, Red-headed Woodpecker 1, Red-bellied Woodpecker 1, Downy Woodpecker 3, Eastern Phoebe 2, Blue Jay 6, American Crow 2, Northern Rough-winged Swallow 4, Tree Swallow 2, Tufted Tit 12, Carolina Chickadee 20, White-breasted Nuthatch 2, Blue-grey Gnatcatcher 8, Eastern Bluebird 4, American Robin 4, Catbird 2,
Northern Mockingbird 2, BrownThrasher 3, Starling 4, Summer Tanager 1, Northern Cardinal 4, Chipping Sparrow 6, Eastern Towhee 4, Field Sparrow 1, Brown-headed Cowbird 2, Common Grackle 2, American Goldfinch 2, House Sparrow 4.

Dickcissels and Bobolinks

Meigs Field used to be an airfield on an island just south of downtown Chicago. The Mayor caused quite a furore when he shut it down overnight and the concierge was obviously still put out about it while pointing it out to me on the map.
Although the due processes may not have been followed, I still maintain that it looks better as a nature reserve than as an airfield.

G.L. had given me some specific directions and instructions. G had told me that he had previously seen Dickcissel there, so I was on a twitch.The weather was dreadful, but it was only a 15 minute cycle ride from the hotel and a small search area. An easy lifer, what could be better? But the weather quickly took a turn for the worse. Even though it was raining when I left the hotel, it was still reasonably warm. This didn't last long. Suddenly a cold wind picked up and the temperature fell quickly. The wet and the wind was making it very uncomfortable, but at least the wind was behind me and was blowing me along.
I turned onto Northley Island by the observatory and continued South, passing Soldier Field Stadium over on the mainland. My instructions were to search the loop at the far end of the island where there was a small, managed prairie. This area is quite exposed and the wind was pressing much of the vegetation close to the ground. Big white-crested waves were forming on the lake and it was becoming very cold.
For no special reason, I elected to go anticlockwise around the loop. A large sparrow-like bird was obeying his instinctual directive and, trying to cling to a stalk, was calling for a mate. I admired his determination but did not give much for his chances in these conditions. If I tried that at home, my wife would make rude gestures through the window, but would not be tempted outside. It was a Bobolink male in his full breeding regalia of pale crown and nape with matching patches in the wings. A non-breeding bird nearby would occasionally launch itself into the teeth of the gale and be whisked away downwind. The breeding bird would react to his breeding imperative again and chase after it. Like a airborne dogfight, he followed the jinks and turns of the other bird in front then banked sharply like a Spitfire peeling off from formation and was sucked away by the the storm. Having chased off the lesser bird, he dragged himself back up-wind to start his singing over again. I did not even bother to take the camera out of the bag. I was shivering by now and the results would have been worthless. The pictures here were taken the next morning when things had brightened up a bit.
Further around the loop in exactly the place G had described, I heard the call that I had been listening out for. Now I was at the most southerly point of the loop and was looking back up the island, into the wind. The bird, I suspect, was turning his head as he called causing a ventriloquial effect and combined with the wind, this was making him very difficult to pinpoint. Eventually, I managed to triangulate his position by moving up and down the path, changing my perspective. It was indeed a Dickcissel trying to stay low, beneath the wind, but still compelled by the need to breed. He was clinging to a madly waving flower stem, looking splendid in his yellow vest and black cravat, singing to attract a mate.The wind that had been behind me on the way down was now against me. Nearly 45 minutes later, I reached the hotel sodden and shivering.
Storms were predicted for the next morning, so I lay in and later met with some colleagues for breakfast. By 10.00 it was looking as if the meteorologists had got it wrong, so I took a quick ride back to Northerley Island to see if I could get some photos to illustrate this post. It would be a shame to find 2 lifers and have no pictures to show for them.
It was still windy. Well it is Chicago, but it was much brighter and I was able to get some photos. There were Red-winged Blackbirds and Savannah Sparrows calling from the flower stems. They were quite approachable but the Dickcissel and Bobolink stayed obstinately distant. To add to the Northerly Island list I found Spotted Sandpiper, Blue Jay and Eastern Kingbird.
Thanks once again to G.L. for the information.

Species List
Canada Goose 200, Mallard 4, Ringbilled Gull 200, Killdeer 2, Spotted Sandpiper 1, Barn Swallow 12, Cliff Swallow 1, Northern Roughwing Swallow 6, Eastern Kingbird 2, American Robin 4, Blue Jay 1, House Sparrow 4, Starling 15, Savannah Sparrow 12, Dickcissel 3, Bobolink 2, Common Grackle 2, Red-shouldered Blackbird 20.

Southeast Arizona

My airline has recently reviewed it’s travel concession policy and has allowed me to add my long-time friend and birdy-buddy, Martin, as a travel companion. In anticipation of the new rules, I requested a trip to Phoenix and Martin arranged some space in his diary. A 5-day trip gives 2 full days of birding plus a little extra something on the fourth morning.
We planned a route that would take us into the famed southeast corner of Arizona. This area is noted for being a hotspot for birds reaching their northernmost limits, just squeezing into the USA past the omnipresent border patrols. Birds more commonly associated with Mexico and Central America can be found here among other specialists of the desert and mountain habitats.

Day 1. 20th May.

Low cloud all day kept the light low and photos to a minimum.
Our first stop was to be the noted Pecan Grove close to the Pinal Air Park. First light found us just short at the side of the road with our first target bird, a Greater Roadrunner. No trip to the desert would be complete without a roadrunner. My navigation narrowly missed the pecan grove at the first attempt, but once we saw it across the fields, it was an easy mistake to correct.
It was not immediately obvious whether or not we could enter the grove. Etiquette was high on the priority list of the author of our guide book, so we elected to stay in the car and skirt two sides. Already we had a handful of beautiful birds. Gambell’s Quail(one of the local specialities), Lesser Nighthawk, Blue Grosbeak, Western Tanager and Phainopepla to name but a few. To this we added, Yellow-rumped Warbler, White-crowned Sparrow and Black-headed Grosbeak. Less spectacular were 2 Mallard that flew over. The fields on the approach had given up some Horned Lark amongst the many Red-shouldered Blackbirds. On the return to the road, the fields gave us a snake. My best guess at the moment is a kingsnake

I am worried that there are so many reptiles and insects appearing in this increasingly misnamed bird blog, but just look at him. I don’t know what it is yet, I am hoping for a herp to find this blog and start cataloguing for me. Watch out for the rattlesnake later!
The plan was to be at the Sonoran Desert Museum by opening time at 07.30, but this was never going to happen. Easily distracted, we stopped a few times en-route for Pyrruloxia, Gila Woodpecker, Ashy-throated Flycatcher, Verdin, Cactus Wren and Curve-billed Thrasher. We eventually arrived at the museum closer to 09.00, having already seen most of the birds that we were hoping to see there. I wanted to see the hummingbird aviary. The Anna’s Hummingbird below sat provocatively on an open perch and allowed us to approach very closely. I would have loved to get a shot of one in flight, or at a flower, but it was not to be. Two females were tending nests, one with an egg, the other with two chicks, one of which had just fledged.There were plenty of wild birds in the grounds including the Hooded Oriole, Bronzed Cowbird and a Wilson’s Warbler. There were more grosbeaks, wrens, thrashers and woodpeckers too.
Our plans changed from here. We had anticipated the desert to be fiercely hot by 10.00 and were intending to head up into the mountains. The temperature was 107F when we landed the previous evening, but had plummeted overnight. To our delight, the mercury was barely over 80F. So we continued our meanderings in the lower lying habitats, taking in the area at the crossing of Shannon and Broadway (Say’s Phoebe and Black-tailed Gnatcatcher of note) and on to the Sweetwater Wetlands. Roger’s Ponds across from Sweetwater was playing host to the resident Harris Hawk family. A youngster was calling pitifully while two other family members fussed around it. A Vermillion Flycatcher hawked from a low branch beneath them.
Sweetwater Wetlands is a series of reed-lined ponds surrounded by cat-tails. The first pond had a few ducks, but we suspected that they may have been clipped or rescued or otherwise not present at their own volition. A board outside which listed all the birds alphabetically claimed the Cinnamon Teal and Shoveller to be resident, but with the Harris Hawks and Gambell’s quails separating the ducks on the list we questioned the credibility of the information.
On the larger bodies of water beyond the fence were American Avocets, Black-necked Stilts, Killdeer and Great Blue Herons. Martin wandered off and left me to my own devices and guess what? I ended up taking pictures of dragonflies again. I had previously missed the rodents, but I imagine the Harris Hawks know all about them. Chubby chaps with short tails, I was informed that they were packrats, but I have not yet been able to verify this. Also worthy of mention were Common Yellowthroat, Abert’s Towhee, Northern Roughwinged Swallow and a rattlesnake. Again I throw myself at the whim of a passing herp to tell me which of the many kinds it might be.
We made a quick detour to Madera Canyon to check on our accommodation for the next night only to find Santa Rita Lodge ominously quiet. Then, puzzled, on to Nogales to spend the night at the Holiday Inn Express, which, in case you are interested, proved to be clean, comfortable, quiet and affordable.

Day 2. 21st May

The Rose-throated Becard was not to be seen at Patagonia rest stop early the next morning. He has not been seen yet this year I understand. Past years he has built his nest alongside Sonoita Creek opposite the rest stop and vainly waited for a mate. Perhaps he has found a more productive spot at last. Good luck to him.
Thick-billed Kingbirds were very much in evidence and a Canyon Wren entertained us with his song and gave good close-up views as he moved among the rocks close to the road. Ravens passed over as did a pair of Black-bellied Whistling Ducks.
A Lucy’s Warbler was calling insistently from the hillside and I mistook it’s clear song for a wren. Martin found a Lazuli Bunting which at last gives me reason for buying that red ink refill. My first lifer since starting the blog. Actually the theme of the morning was red. Northern Cardinals, Summer Tanagers, Vermillion Flycatchers. Oh for some light to take pictures by.
We left the rest stop as the rain began. It lasted through breakfast at the Stage Coach Inn and for the rest of the morning while we sat under the awning at the Patons’ house. This is supposed to be May in Arizona. Still, what better way to sit out a rain shower?

Our count for the garden was over 30 birds including Yellow-breasted Chat, Violet-crowned Hummingbird, and a disputed Mississippi Kite. It was out of it’s normal range, but there was no doubt in my mind that it was a Mississippi Kite. The obvious candidate was a Grey Hawk, but there was no sign at all of any banding in the tail. Nor was there a white vent or rump when it flew. It was a slim bird, grey with a flat, white head. It took a turn around the locality and showed no patterning on it’s underside apart from a slightly darker tail. So my red pen is out again.At the front of the house a Cassin's Kingbird was hawking from the wire.
The Patons deserve a mention before we drive off. Wally and Marion hang feeders all around their house and welcome anyone who wishes to come and visit. They thoughtfully provide a shade pagoda with chairs, field guides and identification guides for the hummingbirds. Thanks to them and don’t forget to donate to the sugar fund if you visit.
There was not much left to see in Sonoita Creek Reserve that we had not already seen in the Paton’s garden so we took a cursory drive along the road that runs parallel to the creek. A Black Vulture was added along with good views of the local White-tailed (Coues’) Deer and, just as we were leaving, our best look at the Greater Roadrunner when 2 crossed the road in front of us. We wasted some time trying to find a sophisticated spot for lunch. By sophisticated, I mean we were hoping for cutlery, but had no luck, settling for yet another fast meal in Continental. By the time we reached Santa Rita Lodge, we only had about an hour of useful daylight left. We needed to be at the lodge to see the Elf Owl leave it's roost.

We had heard that an Elegant Trogon had been showing well the previous day on the Mount Baldy Trail. An hour looking for trogons was an hour well spent in my book. Actually my book also said that taped recordings were forbidden in Madera Canyon. I only noticed this section later and am ashamed to admit that I played a recording to whistle-up a trogon

Playback is a very effective way to catch a bird's attention, but I agree with the authorities in Madera Canyon to ban playback where rare or sensitive birds are nesting. I was thoughtless.

The Elf Owl, though we were assured that they still nested there, did not show. They have been nesting in a telegraph (utility) pole at Santa Rita Lodge for some years now. Someone suggested that the temperature was keeping them indoors. The temperature had by now dropped below 70F and overcast. This was wonderful weather for heat-haters like Martin and myself, but not for Elf Owls it would seem.

As we waited for the Elf Owls to show, we tried to identify the music of the night. Most easily recognised was the tri-syllabic call of the Whip-poor-will. After we had given up on the owls, we were returning to our chaletand the whip-poor-wills were calling very close by. I shone my torch up into the tree and through a fortuitous gap in the foliage, shone the eyes of 2 Whip-poor-wills.

Day 3. 22nd May.

The Santa Rita Lodge was good value at $95 between us.

We had arranged a bird walk for Friday morning and sure enough, at 07.oo, Jack Murray arrived and took us, with 3 others down to the edge of the grasslands at Proctor Parking.

This gave us a good view out over the grasslands wherein, he claimed, Botteri’s Sparrow lived. Having never even heard of Boterri’s Sparrow before now, it suddenly became a priority. We didn’t find one, but in the sage words that Martin saves for occasions such as these, “it gives me a good excuse to come back and look again.”
In conversation with Jack, he was telling us that he did 80% of his birding by ear these days as his eyes were beginning to let him down. His hearing though was still reliable and he was able to pick out birds long before we got close to them.

We did find Bell's Vireo, Summer Tanager, Black-chinned Sparrow, Turkey Vulture and Verdin before heading back up the slope.

We stopped at Kubo Madera where Jack knew of a Flame-coloured Tanager, apparently the only one in the USA. It was calling from a large, leafy Arizona Sycamore which made him very difficult to locate amongst the superficially similar Black-headed Grosbeaks. While we were trying, a Magnificent Hummingbird came to the feeders nearby and a trogon called from the adjacent property.

Eventually the tanager came down to the feeders at Kubo Madera and gave us a good view.

Finally, we moved up onto the mountain and headed up the Vault Mine Trail. Her were Painted Redstarts, Lucy's warbler and Plumbeous Vireos. One of our group was especially keen to see a Red-faced Warbler. He became quite ecstatic when Jack tracked one down after hearing it calling.

Acorn Woodpeckers were common throughout the forst. A male Hepatic Tanager showed off above us and Yellow-eyed Juncos picked through the leaf-litter on the forest floor.

We reached Jack's objective of a comfortable array of rocks within sight of a trogon's nesting area. Here we sat to wait. Trogons patrol up and down the creek beds in their chosen territory, so an effective way to see them is to position yourself well and wait for one to fly past. The trogons did not appear, but a Grace's Warbler showed well while we were waiting.

We started back down the hill and saw the Red-faced Warbler again, this time in full sunshine.

As we neared the bottom of the trail, Jack recognised 3 regular birders who were settled comfortably at the side of the trail. They all had their binoculars trained into a large Arizona Sycamore acroos the path. One of the golden rules of birding is "never ignore anyone with binoculars, especially if they are looking intently at something in a tree."

There was an Elegant Trogon, hidden slightly by the foliage. I use the red ink now as I am still slightly embarrased about the playback incident. With a quick skip back up the trail the angle was sufficient for a decent view and Voila!

So there we are. It was time to return to Phoenix for the flight back to the UK, but it had been a succesful trip. I was returning home with enough lifers for a clumsy turner's handful and I suspect Martin may have scored a couple of armfuls. I hope he enjoyed himself and I will try to tempt him with a trip to Cape Town some time soon.

A big thank you

Photos for the blogs from Sydney and the return leg in Singapore are made possible by John 3:16.     www.john316photo.com

This enigmatically named photo supply shop in Funan Plaza, Singapore was able to help me when no-one else was prepared to do so.

I had already fired 800 shots and used up 3 batteries. I don't usually get so trigger happy and so I do not carry the charger with me.

When I went to Harvey Norman to ask if it were possible to charge a battery, the salesman could not help me. In Song Brothers, The salesman tried to sell me a charger. I already have a charger as well as one for my phone, i-pod, computer etc. I don't need any more. I just want a boost. 

The Canon shop tried to sell me a new battery. "Is it charged?" I asked, "No, but you could buy a charger."

It seemed that my request was beyond the ken of mortal retailers. Then I met Samual Gan. His shop is named for the biblical quotation John 3:16. With a smile, he took my batteries and suggested I came back in a couple of hours. Mr Gan did not expect me to make a purchase and refused a contribution for his time and energy.

So a big thank you toMr Gan and his staff.

Bring more water next time.

I have described the Central Catchment Area, Macritchie Reservoir in a section called Singapore Site Guide. This is where I found myself this morning. I was trying a new and exciting way of getting there, but realized that the tried and trusted route as described in the site guide is probably best.

Thick-billed Pigeon

The usual suspects were to be found in the trees separating the fairways on the golf course. From the Lornie Road end of Sime road, I could see into the Singapore Island Country Club ( Bukit )grounds. The line-up consisted of Pink-necked Green Pigeon, Black-naped Oriole and Asian Koel. I didn’t linger long, I was keen to be in the forest.
The first part of the track has been much improved since my last visit, but the second section of the trail was still very rough. I consistently forget how frustrating birding in the forest can be. I go in with such high hopes only to find that either the forest is as quiet as the grave, or that it is full of birdsong without a single bird actually being visible. On this occasion a huge chorus was calling, but managing to flit, in silhouette, through the canopy without me getting a good look.
The morning was already hot and very sticky. Every time that I stopped, my glasses steamed up. I had to take them off and wave them about to clear them. Eventually, 2 Greater Racket-tailed Drongos came out of the tangles and showed that they were the main culprits of the chorus. I was surprised by how much noise they could make between them. A Chestnut-vented Malkoha kept to the shadows, but was distinctive with it’s large size and light greenish bill.
Out in the open of the golf course, 2 Collared Kingfishers sat together on a branch overlooking a water hazard. On my right the reservoir steamed gently. It was so sticky that I was unsure whether the reservoir was giving up water to the atmosphere or the moisture was being wrung from the air itself.
I stopped to try to get a picture of a Thick-billed Pigeon. Despite having ladled factor 15 sunscreen on to myself and although it was only 09.00, I was still being hurt by the intensity of the sun.

I moved on towards the shade of the boardwalk and the forest beyond. I was halted just before the boardwalk by another dragonfly. I will have to find a good field guide for these chaps. Does anyone know of a good one for Singapore?
The day was becoming increasingly, unpleasantly, hot. There were a few local Singaporeans braving the elements and the unmistakable bray of English ex-pat who was, insanely, jogging with her friend. A little early in the day for mad dogs, but the English do hate to pass up opportunities to show quite how ridiculous they can be. I felt foolish enough myself with my hankie draped from the back of my cap to protect the back of my neck.
Not surprisingly, the birding was quiet. Nothing unexpected had shown up until I moved into the damp section of boardwalk. I had stopped for yet more dragonflies when something fluttered up from the ground and alighted about 5 meters away, just visible. I could see it was a nightjar, but could not make out which one it might be in the gloom of the understorey. I tried a photo, but didn’t hold out much hope. I was surprised therefore to see quite a bit of detail in the picture when I got it home. There are a few candidates for nightjars in Singapore, so I had to check the mug shots. It was easy to narrow the suspect list down to 3; the Large-tailed, Grey and Savannah. From the evidence, I am tempted to suggest Large-tailed Nightjar, but would have preferred to see the broad white tips on the tail.
I would be pleased to hear any opinions.
Next, I met up with the Monkeys. Long-tailed Macaques are common in the forest and quite bold. I encountered them just as I was leaving the boardwalk and approaching the Jetulung Observation Tower. The tower raises you up through the mid-levels to the canopy 6 storeys above. There is no shade on the top level, so I set up my stake-out from the 5th. I unpacked some water and a snack and took off my cap and camera. The monkeys had joined me on the tower and were fascinated by all the gear lying around. They kept looking for opportunities to snatch something. Yawning and bearing of teeth with the white eye-lid display is a sign of aggression and or nervousness among the macaques. It was a little intimidating, but they were quickly moved on with a simple “Boo!”
At last I started to see a few birds. From the 5th storey I saw Orange-bellied Flowerpecker, Scarlet Sunbird, Yellow-vented and Olive-winged Bulbul. The monkeys suddenly dived for cover as a large bird of prey flew by. It was White-breasted Sea-eagle. I don’t suppose the sea-eagle would mean any harm to the macaques and they were probably reacting instinctively to the silhouette of a raptor.
Beyond the tower, the jungle steamed uninvitingly. I was beginning to realize the importance of bringing enough water. I was already beginning to suspect that my meager supplies were going to be hopelessly inadequate. There is a drinking fountain at the ranger’s station. If I had chosen the right fork in the path beyond the tower, I might be halfway there by now. But I had elected to head for the Rifle Range Link and was now becoming quite distressed. The sweat was pouring off me and I had precious little to replace it with. It would be a further 5Kms before I was likely to find any water or transport.
I was becoming so distressed that on seeing a trogon-like silhouette on a branch above the path, I muttered, “Please don’t let it be a trogon.” In other circumstances, it would have been a dream photo, but I had no desire to stop lose any more liquids while taking pictures.
As it happens, I got lucky. After reaching the tarmac road, I only had to walk about a kilometer before reaching a radar array. Against all the odds, a taxi was dropping a passenger here and was surprised and pleased to find another fare.
Normally, I prefer to use public transport as much as possible, It’s not the principle, it’s the money. Today, rather than getting the cab to drop me at the nearest bus-stop, I gladly let him take me all the way home.
My colleagues are of the type who are very fastidious about their appearance. Practicality and necessity are no substitute for fashion and style. Imagine the amazement of two of them as I alighted from the taxi in front of them. Dripping, stinking and still with my hanky hanging sodden from the back of my cap, “Minging” I think was the word they used. Once in the cab and making our air conditioned way along Rifle Range Road, I could see that it possibly held some birding opportunities. There was forest on both sides of the road and it looked quite “birdy”. Perhaps next time I will ask to be dropped at the Radar array and walk the trail in reverse. But this time I will bring more water!