Serro do Cantareira is the largest urban forest in the world, but it is closed to the general public during the week and only accessible to walkers, picnickers and birders from 08.00 at weekends. This is less than ideal if your only day off is on Friday, or if you prefer your forests to be a place of peace and contemplation in the early hours.
I maintain that polite enquiry, or gentle charm in the face of refusal, will open more doors, wider than huffing and puffing ever will. To this end I contacted the park authorities explaining that I was an international visitor and that my opportunities were limited. Permission was quickly granted and the offer of a guide who would meet me at the gate at 06.30 was enthusiastically accepted.
The commuters of Sao Paulo were already thronging the metro by 05.30, but I was travelling against the flow and arrived at Jardim Sao Paulo station by 06.00. A Reas20 (@R2.60 = £1), 10 minute taxi ride got me to the entrance in plenty of time to meet my guide and I was allowed through the control gate (Google Earth ref; 23 27 17S 46 38 08W) where I occupied myself by watching Burnished-buff Tanagers, and Dusky-legged Guan while I waited.
Diego arrived and proved to be a very amiable English speaker who is obviously well-liked by all his colleagues. He is not a professional bird guide, as evidenced by his fees, but he is familiar with the 8,000 hectares of forest that is in his charge during his day job working as a biologist at Cantareira State Park.
We drove to the park administration building and started our morning by birding around the small lake there (Google Earth ref; 23 26 51S 46 38 01W). Birds were abundant with 5 lifers coming in a short walk along the bank and through a stand of trees. An unmistakeable Red-ruffed Fruitcrow was seen in the distance, sharing the treetops with a Surucua Trogon. An Olivaceous Euphonia was quickly identified by Diego who also made the call for the Planalto Woodcreeper and the White-throated Woodcreeper.
The Black-crowned Tityra was not a bird that he had seen here before and we had to check it in the field guides. Before he dragged me away from the administration area, Diego showed me a Yellow-fronted Woodpecker which had cut a double-entry nest hole into a tree by the administration building. An inquisitive Streaked Xenops was peeking in through the lower hole, but the larger woodpecker soon put it to flight.
On the main road, Diego pointed out a Blue-backed Manikin that he suspects has been showing off at a lek close to the junction and stopped suddenly as a Solitary Tinamou melted back into the forest from the verge. A tiny bird flew into a tree above our heads and I would have struggled had Diego not called a White-throated Spadebill. Further along, a tree reaches out over the road and has been used as a nesting site by a pair of Surucua Trogons for the last three seasons.
Male
Both parents were close to the nest. There is something mystical about Trogons in my experience. I have never seen one fly; they seem to appear from nowhere and disappear in an eye-blink without crossing any intervening space when doing so.
Female
Next we went on to Lago das Carpas at Google Earth ref; 23 25 25S 46 38 06W. This is a very picturesque lake (probably with carp in it) with a children’s playground and toilet facilities. I didn’t pay a lot of attention to the Least Grebes on the water and only realised that they were life birds when I got home. I was concentrating more on a flycatcher that may or may not have been a red-crayon Swainson’s Flycatcher. It was not possible to separate it from the Short-crested Flycatcher, which would also have been a lifer. A Rufous-collared Sparrow sat for a moment and was unmistakable in the sun.
The full tour of Cantareira’s Pedro Grande Nucleo would not be complete without a visit to the eponymous big stone. From here a view can be had out across Sao Paulo and I wondered why people would leave the city and come to a forest so that they could look back at the city. Pedro Grande however is the park’s most popular feature and a bus spilled a group of tourists out onto the hot rock.
Diego had to work in the afternoon and left me in the forest near to the trogons’ nest. I settled myself in the shade hoping that they would return, but they probably spirited themselves in and out as I did not see them again. Black Vultures circled overhead and made a few low passes, close enough for me to hear the wind in their wings. Only when they began to settle in a nearby tree did I realise that they thought that my supine inactivity might mean that it was time for afternoon tea. During my vigil, rustlings in the dry leaves of the forest floor attracted my attention. Mostly, they were Solitary Tinamou turning the fallen leaves as they passed by, but one sound in particular, that called to mind something being dragged through the leaf litter, set my imagination into overdrive.
During the previous day, Diego had been called out to assist in rescuing a Puma that had strayed from the forest into an adjacent plantation and had been scared up into a tree when felling started (the puma was up the tree, not Diego. Just wanted to make that clear). My mind was full of pictures of a large cat dragging its prey though the undergrowth behind me. The excitement mounted as the creature came closer and closer to the road until at last a huge monitor-type lizard emerged, dragging its long tail behind it.
White-throated Thrush
As I came closer to the entrance of the park, a few well-marked trails cut away from the tarmac. I followed one, the Bugio Trail, intending only to venture a short way along it, but as I turned to retrace my steps back to the road a shrill, “You tWIT” called me back. This is where the confusion started. I assumed that the bird kicking around in the leaf litter was the one that had made the call, which was so like that of a Northern Bobwhite. This planted the seed that it must be a bobwhite. However, the Crested Bobwhite, which is the only Brazilian candidate, would be 2,500 kms out of its accepted range and in the wrong habitat. In a reply to my email, Diego suggested that I consider Spot-winged Wood-Quail and after enhancing and super-zooming a dreadful picture, I will side with him. After comparing my recording with accepted examples on Xeno-canto, I am happy that it was not a Crested Bobwhite, but the call was not that of a Wood-Quail either, so remains a mystery.
The Bica Trail starts from beside the control gate and I had saved this short, circular path until last so that I could better time my departure from the park when the gate closed at 17.00. A few hefty thumps reminded me that I had once seen a Blonde-crested Woodpecker along this trail and I was very keen to see this spectacular bird again. Sadly just at that moment, a group of school children came round the corner, screeching and pulling at my binoculars for a go.
The Bica Trail starts from beside the control gate and I had saved this short, circular path until last so that I could better time my departure from the park when the gate closed at 17.00. A few hefty thumps reminded me that I had once seen a Blonde-crested Woodpecker along this trail and I was very keen to see this spectacular bird again. Sadly just at that moment, a group of school children came round the corner, screeching and pulling at my binoculars for a go.
Birds seen; 48
Solitary Tinamou 4, Least Grebe 2, Neotropic Cormorant 2, Striated Heron 1, Black Vulture 35, Roadside Hawk 1, White-tailed Hawk 1, Dusky-legged Guan 4, Spot-winged Wood-Quail 2, Picazuro Pigeon 8, Pale-vented Pigeon 1, Maroon-bellied Parakeets 4, Scaly-headed Parrot 4, Ashy-tailed Swift 6, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird 3, Suruca Trogon 4, Red-breasted Toucan 3, Yellow-fronted Woodpecker 2, Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner 1, Streaked Xenops 1, White-throated Woodcreeper 2, Planalto Woodcreeper 1, Red-ruffed Fruitcrow 1, Blue-backed Manikin 1, White-throated Spadebill 1, Piratic Flycatcher 1, Streaked Flycatcher 2, Tropical Kingbird 3, Black-crowned Tityra 1, Blue-and –white Swallow 45, Southern House Wren 2, White-throated Thrush 2, Pale-breasted Thrush 2, Yellow-legged Thrush 1, Rufous-bellied Thrush 25, Red-eyed Vireo 2, Violaceous Euphonia 2, Golden-crowned Warbler 1, Bananaquit 6, Ruby-crowned Tanager 5, Red-crowned Ant-tanager 1,
Cantareira Nucleo Pedra Grande can be found in the hills to the north of Sao Paulo. Actually it is a mountain by virtue of reacing 1010m at the big stone.
Public visitors are usually only allowed entry from 08.00 until 17.00 at weekends and private vehicles are not allowed. The entry fee of 9 Reas is paid at the gate.
To walk to Lago das Carpas and complete the return by way of Pedra Grande on the mostly paved road is a distance of 9.5kms.
It may be possible to gain special entry to the park outside of the normal public hours with a park employee/guide. Previously I have been able to visit the park at 06.00 on a weekday, but Diego, my guide on this occasion, has moved on to a different section. He has sent me a link to his friend and colleague who may be able guide you at a time more conducive to birding.
Contact Daniel at;
Mobile phone; 011985962043
Take the Metro to Tucuruvi. Take a taxi from here and show the following address to the driver to make sure that you are going to the right place;
Rua do Horto, 1799 – Tremembe – Parque Estudial da Cantareira – Nucleo Perda Grande.
From the small open area in front of Alberto Lofgren Park, keep right and continue to the top of Rua do Horto where you will see the park gates at Google Earth ref; 23 27 17.41S 46 38 8.27W.
On return, it may not be possible to find a cab, so make your way back down the hill to the small open area in front of Alberto Lofgren Park. Here you will find a stop for bus number 2470 which returns to its terminal at Metro Station - Parada Ingles for 3 Reas.
If your only time in Sao Paulo does not coincide with a weekend, Alberto Lofgren Park, (Google Earth ref; 23 27 31.90S 46 38 2.52W ) is adjacent to Cantareira and a small area of forest and forest edge is accessible through the large wrought iron gates in the small square at the bottom of the hill.
Follow the links below for other posts from Sao Paulo;
http://redgannet.blogspot.com/2009/08/sao-paulo-august-2009.html
http://redgannet.blogspot.com/2011/10/botanical-gardens-sao-paulo-sep-2011.html
Visit the dedicated Central and South America page for more posts from this region.
By the time we finished disembarking, completed the Brazilian formalities and arrived at the hotel, it was 07.30. 
The entrance cost 3Reais (@£1 = 3.2 Reais) and I was asked to sign a disclaimer stating that I would not use any of my photos for commercial purposes.
Another call attracted me, but the bird stayed frustratingly elusive. I picked up a few marks from quick glimpses, enough to narrow it down to a spinetail of sorts. There are many furnariids which all look very alike so I needed more to get a good ID. The call was repetitive so I pished the same rhythm with some success. Eventually, I noticed the bird scrutinizing me through a gap in the foliage. I quickly noted as many field marks as I could on my dictaphone and then dived for the field-guide. The chap in question was a Rufous-capped Spinetail.
A group of howler monkeys (red?) crossed high above the trail. They seemed to be responding to some other howlers calling in the distance.
Behind him, a path ran along the edge of the forest and on it, I spotted a Slaty-breasted Rail, so I ignored the guard and tried to get some pictures.
It was 11.00 by now and warming up nicely. The guard had taken a seat and was watching me at his leisure. I wondered if the lakes might provide a bit of odonata action, so I took a seat on the grass near the edge. 
Nothing was moving yet, but a Rufous-collared Sparrow, flew in and settled beside me. A Great Kiskadee was hawking across the lily-pads from a low perch.
The dragonflies didn’t start to show until gone 12.00. By then a second security guard had taken over Redgannet watch while the first one had a break.
I think I may have found as many as 8 different odonata, but will need to do some research to identify them properly.+of+GRU+02Aug09+Dragonfly+a+06.jpg)
Heading back towards the entrance, I passed a small remnant of forest and was rewarded with a good view of a Squirrel Cuckoo.
For my next trick, I wanted to investigate the deeper lakes in the fields close to the road. The guard finally lost interest when we arrived back at the entrance gate. Thinking, I was going home, he peeled off right. I went left towards the lakes which are surrounded by long tangled grasses. A flock of smooth-billed Anis were moving through the grass like rodents scurrying about. It was hard to tell how many they were, but they were very approachable. 
One in particular sat and allowed me to approach within the minimum focussing distance for the Canon 100-400mm.
It is unfortunate that the zoo and it’s wildfowl collection is so close by. There was a potential lifer among the ducks. A pair of
The Brazilian Teal looked much more wary than the ones I had seen on the bank of the ornamental lakes in the gardens, so I will take those and check up on the others to see if they merit a tick.
Actually, it was not at all as I had expected. When I arrived, I passed through a security gate and noticed the children’s playground and picnic area on my left and even a small museum. People were jogging even ladies by themselves. It was not the isolated primeval swamp that I had envisaged. Just the same, I felt conspicuous with a tripod over my shoulder and a big camera attached. 
An overhead photograph served as a guide, but I did not notice the one-way arrows which indicated that travel round the 4km loop should be anti-clockwise.
Black Vulture
Beyond the falcons were some Coati, the Central and South American relation to the racoon and beyond them still, an Agouti fed close to the edge of the forest. The Agouti looks like a cross between an antelope and a rodent.
The monkeys are known locally as Macaco prego. They look like capuchins. Despite the mess now, there was no litter beyond the immediate vicinity so the bins had obviously been used by the sophisticated Paulistas over the weekend. At 08.00 patrols were already out cleaning up after the monkeys. If only we could be this diligent at home.
A Masked Water-tyrant was stalking in the grass. From the edge of the lake came a long rattling call like a tone-deaf Dabchick. It was another spinetail type of bird, low down in the trees overhanging the water. I narrowed my options and realised that it’s behaviour and habitat probably left me with one choice. 
The mark under the chin of the 
A 
Further down, a Striated Heron was sitting quietly.
Along the side of the lake, Bottle-brush trees were alive with Bananaquits and hummingbirds. Swallowtails were especially common with a few Sapphire Spangled Emeralds.
A little café drew me close with the smell of breakfast and from there, I cut across the playing fields. A hawk soared above the ubiquitous football pitches. I had to check it up in the field guide and found it was a 
I cut across to the path which forms a spur from the main loop and found a marshy area on the other side. A rail was foraging amongst the low water plants, but I never managed to get a good look.
Sayaca Tanager
I had hoped for a few dragonflies from the marshy area, but had to be satisfied with just a couple of exuvia.
A Limpkin roosted in a tree overlooking the water. It looked as if large plants had died back for the winter and the area will probably be very thick with vegetation when spring returns.
Surprisingly, the river was teeming with birds. Most commonly, moorhens, but also Rufous Whistling Ducks, Smooth-billed Anis and Black-necked Stilts. I emerged back onto the path and scared the willies out of an old gentleman on a bicycle who was passing. He wobbled off anti-clockwise and I continued my tour against the flow.
Sayaca Tanager
First a Cattle Tyrant. It was picking it’s way across the car park towards me, so I sat on the kerb and waited for it to approach. The same routine worked for the Rufous Hornero too. 
The trees behind me were casting a dappled shadow, but there were enough gaps in the winter foliage to let the light through and the birds obligingly kept to the well-lit patches. 
I had to get in front of the Rufous-bellied Thrush for a good angle. It came really close to drink from a puddle beside the kerb. 
I loved this coquettish pose. On my way home later, there were Saffron Finches at the same spot.
Close-by, a bridge spans a narrow part of the main lake. 
On both sides of the bridge are red-flowered trees beloved of the swallowtails and Bananaquits. I picked one in full sun and settled down to wait for the birds to come to me.
That niggling feeling was still bothering me, so I had strategically chosen to face a tree on a downward slope with the sun behind me. This way anyone approaching from behind would cast a long shadow giving me plenty of warning.
I wondered at his widely splayed tail. Was this a display? And if so was it to attract the ladies or to deter rivals. Perhaps it was a female.
At last I found some hummingbirds feeding, though more practice is needed to get better photos. I need a faster shutter speed to stop the wings and still maintain detail. 
A faster shutter speed would have been good for the Bananaquits too as they are constantly moving. Being handheld this morning allowed me to get to the shots more quickly, but I would have liked to have had that extra support from a tripod (I broke my monopod last night).
In a blossom tree was an Epaulet Oriole. Plain Parakeets moved in to the tree, and fed on the flowers. It was interesting to note that 3 different birds fed on the same flowers in 3 different ways. 
The parakeets sever the petal and drop it to the ground after licking out the pollen. The hummingbird uses it’s long bill to reach deep into the flower, while the Bananaquit pierces the base of the stalk to get the nectar. I crossed the bridge to have a mooch about on the lightly wooded lawns on the other side of the lake. 
Rufous Hornero
By the lake was a Snowy Egret which I was able to approach very closely. I talked to the bird as I approached and stopped occasionally to take a shot. 
Then I would inch closer before the next one, all the time talking in a low voice. I got to within 3 meters when a Great Egret flew in and landed beside my new friend and bullied him away.