Costanera Sur, Buenos Aires, June 2014

It is hard to know which moment to pick as the highlight of this post. It could have been the long-awaited Great Grebe or the surprise Plumbeous rail. After looking at Red-fronted Coots all morning, it came as a shock to find that they qualified for the red-pen too. The Guira Cuckoos performed as usual and at last I remembered how to work my camera. So it was a good day all round.

Compared with previous visits, the list was slightly low at 44, but I put much of that down to birds migrating north, though in truth I have no clue about the migratory habits of the Argentinian avifauna. The list made it past the 40 mark by virtue of the waterfowl that had come to enjoy the flooded Lago de Los Copios along the inland promenade.

I was only able to cover a limited area of the reserve today as I had come straight from the flight and therefore had a late start. I checked the promenade and the southern trail.

I started by moving north to south along the promenade which was already quite busy on a Sunday morning. Personal security was at the front of my mind for much of the day and I tried to be as discrete as possible with my camera, but this area comes under the watchful eye of the Navy and they have a reputation for dealing firmly with miscreants. So the crime rate here is lower than in other parts of the city, but nevertheless, it doesn’t do to flaunt these things.

I waited until I could access the lower walkway that drops to level with the water along the southern third of the promenade (It is usually gated, but the catches are in poor condition and an inquisitive tug will usually result in the gates swinging invitingly open). Work has been going on here to drag much of the weed from the water. Small roosting islands have been built from heaps of the weeds and White-faced Whistling Ducks were using them to roost. A closer look revealed Brazilian Teal, Ringed Teal and a single Rosy-billed Pochard. Despite the Ringed Teal being written in red, I am quite familiar with them as they feature in a local wildfowl collection. The Rosy-billed Pochard was the first one that I had seen since finding them here as a life bird over 18 years ago.

The edges of the reeds and the open water were frequented by gallinules and coots. Common Gallinules greatly outnumbered the Spot-flanked Gallinules, but it was the latter that I lavished attention on. Red-fronted Coots were easy to see and I didn’t realise that I was trying to look past this life bird to find the other coot species that are common here.

As I was trying to make a Red-gartered Coot into a White-winged Coot, a movement in the reeds caught my attention and a rail darted across an open spot. Red and sky-blue patches at the base of the bill were easily visible which gave me the ID for a Plumbeous Rail.

Two Coscoroba Swans roosted at the edge of the reeds and Silver Teal fed, shoveler-like from the surface of the water. Red-gartered preferred the southern end of the open water.

The Laguna de Los Copios is not always wet and has had almost no water at all during my last couple of visits, so the waterfowl are not a permanent fixture here, but a real pleasure when they are on site.

The southern entrance to the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve is at the end of the promenade at Google Earth ref; 34 36 59.64S 58 21 23.23W I wanted to walk the southern loop, but the reserve was very busy and the bird numbers were low.

A steady stream of people was heading towards the picnic area that looks out over the coast (Google Earth ref; 34 36 23.12S 58 20 47.08W). It seems that watching the sunset from the beach is a popular attraction for the local Buenos (although of course the sun sets inland, not over the water). A Southern Caracara took refuge at the top of a tall metal structure. This structure has proved productive in the past with American Kestrel and Chimango Caracara.

 I pulled off to the right halfway along the path towards the picnic area and looped round the southern section of the reserve. Even so the paths were still very busy and did not give up much bird life, though a Small-billed Elaenia popped up for a moment in response to a “pish” and a Hooded Siskin ventured out onto a thin branch during a lull in the traffic.

A small flock of Bay-winged Cowbirds fed from the characteristic plumes of Pampas Grass that can be seen around the reserve. Picazuro Pigeons were very common and many were seen flying over as they began looking for roosts in the early evening. This one was found at the picnic site and looked as if it had come to take in the party atmosphere.

I was about to take a quick snap of the crowds on the shore when I noticed a movement on the water beyond. I replaced the Canon with the Bushnell’s and was delighted to see a Great Grebe, just off the rubble beach.

This was a bird that I have hoped to see on each of my visits here, but up until now had been unlucky. It is not a rare or difficult bird, but it was at the northern extent of its range and I was at the southern limit of mine, so this is the only place that our paths are ever likely to cross.

The grebe was fishing close in to the shore and allowed me to sit on a chunk of rock on the water’s edge as it went about its business.

I returned to the south entrance and found the promenade packed with people. They had come to shop at small stalls laid out on the pavement and to eat and drink at the small parrillon cafes. It would have been virtually impossible to bird along the promenade in these conditions, so bear this in mind if you are here on a weekend. The morning and early afternoon had been quiet enough, but the evening was extremely busy.

Bird list for Costanera Sur; 44

White-faced Whistling Duck 12, Coscoroba Swan 2, Ringed Teal 4, Brazilian Teal 15, Silver Teal 8, Rosy-billed Pochard 3, White-tufted Grebe 2, Pied-billed Grebe 1, Great Grebe 1, Neotropic Cormorant 15, Cocoi Heron 1, Great Egret 3, Southern Caracara 4, Chimango Caracara 2, Plumbeous Rail 1, Common Gallinule 60, Spot-flanked Gallinule 3, Red-gartered Coot 7, Red-fronted Coot 25, Southern Lapwing 1, Wattled Jacana 3, Kelp Gull 20, Picazuro Pigeon 140, Eared Dove 1, Nanday Parakeet 25, Monk Parakeet 30, Guira Cuckoo 8, Green-barred Woodpecker 2, Rufous Hornero 5, Small-billed Elaenia 1, Spectacled Tyrant 3, Great Kiskadee 25, Blue-and-White Swallow 10, House Wren 1, Rufous-bellied Thrush 5, Creamy-bellied Thrush 1, Chalk-browed Mockingbird 15, European Starling 8, Golden-billed Saltator 2, Black-and-Rufous Warbling Finch 1, Rufous-collared Sparrow 10, Bay-winged Cowbird 6, Hooded Siskin 5, House Sparrow 3.

A quick visit on the morning of our return flight added a few birds to the list and brought another lifer in the form of a Long-winged Harrier. The light is against you early in the morning as you walk along the promenade and even at daybreak there were joggers and a few left-over revellers from last night. A Harris’s Hawk flew across the low weeds at the northern end, betraying the presence of a few ducks, including a couple of Yellow-billed Teal.

I reached the southern gate just after 08.00 and it was punctually open. A Rufescent Tiger-heron stood in the deep shadow and a Chequered Woodpecker obligingly made itself obvious in a dead tree. The north gate was open on this occasion (Tuesday morning at 10.00), but I cannot vouch for its opening times.

Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve consists of a large area of reclaimed land on the shore of the Rio Plata/ South Atlantic Ocean, close to the docks area of Buenos Aires. The reclaimed area has annexed the once magnificent promenade from the big water of the coast. The promenade, though still magnificent in its faded glory now looks out onto reedbeds and freshwater wetland (Lagos de Los Coipos). There is open water at the southern end depending on the recent rains and the vigilance of the park workers who were raking out a lot of weed this weekend.

It is a popular spot for joggers and cheap cafes cater to the less energetic. This area becomes extremely busy on weekend evenings. It is accessible at all times with a low wall separating the 2km public walkway from the Lagos de Los Coipos.

The main body of the reserve is the reclaimed area. A good path runs all the way round the inside of the reserve with a couple of short cuts through the centre. A complete circle is about 8kms. Two large lakes have pretty much been clogged with reeds and in my four visits have never had any visible open water, just a wide expanse of reeds. Most of the interest comes along the paths which are lined with woodland, scrub and pampas.

The reserve has a gate at the southern end of the promenade (Google Earth ref; 34 36 58.45S 58 21 18.90W. It opens at 08.00 and closes at dusk. A gate at the north end of the promenade is not as reliable. I believe that it is only open at weekends. If you are on foot, it is easy to skip the fence here if necessary.

The reserve is also popular with joggers and walkers who will often greet you amicably as they pass.

For previous posts from Costanera Sur, follow the links below;

http://redgannet.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/costanera-sur-assessment-on-arrival.html

http://redgannet.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/costanera-sur-pre-departure-buenos.html

http://redgannet.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/the-promenade-costanera-sur-buenos.html

http://redgannet.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/costanera-sur-reserve-buenos-aires.html

http://redgannet.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/promenading-at-costanera-sur-buenos.html

Visit the dedicated Central and South AmericanPage for more posts from Buenos Aires, including Ribera Norte and Parque Tresde Febrero.

Birding, Birdwatching, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Promenading at Costanera Sur, Buenos Aires, December 2012

Pick up is at lunch-time today which gives me a few hours in the morning to visit Costanera Sur and improve on my total for the trip. Having already posted separately for the reserve and the promenade, I am now content to join them together on a single page. If you want more specific post on either, follow the links above or see the links at the end of the page. At 05.30 a guard came sluggishly out from his sentry box at the north-east end of the promenade to confirm that the gates there would remain closed until 08.00 on this Sunday morning. Jumping the fence had been a feasible and popular option on my last trip to Buenos Aires, but this gate appears to have become an official entrance now and warrants its own guard.

 

So I pounded the promenade for a couple of hours and found the same number of birds with a few missing and a few added. Picazuro Pigeons, Eared Doves and Shiny Blackbirds were still abundant on the pavements and flying over. Masked Yellowthroats and Masked Gnatcatchers were again common in the reeds and bushes beyond the wall.

A big Saturday night had spilled over into Sunday morning for a few exuberant revellers who were still dancing at the parrillons which had stayed open to accommodate their yeasty needs. A few that were still able to, acknowledged me with a wave while others drag-raced along the road. Much had been made of personal security in Buenos Aires, but the biggest problem I had was having the sun in my eyes all the way along the promenade. At the far end a small patch of water held a couple of Wattled Jacanas which allowed a slightly closer approach this morning. Amongst the Yellow-billed Teals, I was able to pick out a Silver Teal. House Wrens continued to be common and easily photographed.

The light was better on the return journey to the gate. A few joggers and walkers had started to show and most of the revellers had moved on. The gate was open when I returned at 08.00. Immediately inside the gate, I found the nest of a Rufous Hornero and stopped for a while to watch it coming and going.
 

 

I followed the path towards the river and found a few more Yellow-billed Teals on the left. Grass growing up by the side of the path attracted Double-collared Seedeaters and a pair of Narrow-billed Woodcreepers passed quickly through, probing the bark of the Tipu Trees as they went.

 

 

I had to refer back to the field guide when a pair of unusual birds passed through. It reminded me of an Australian finch, but turned out to be a Blue-and-yellow Tanager. It kept to the deep shade and I was surprised to get a photo. It must look fantastic in better light.

 

 

A Glittering-bellied Emerald buzzed around in the shade, feeding from the flowers of a tipu sapling. Getting it in the frame was tricky. I would have loved to get that photograph properly.

I only made it to the corner by the river before I had to return and get ready to fly home. A Red-crested Cardinal was the last bird before turning back.

 

Birds seen; 42

Silver Teal 1, Yellow-billed Teal 12, Rufescent Tiger-heron 1, Great Egret 7, Snowy Egret 1, Southern Caracara 1, Chimango Caracara 1, Southern Lapwing 2, Wattled Jacana 2, Picazuro Pigeon 80, Eared Dove 45, Nanday Parakeet 6, Monk Parakeet 8, Guira Cuckoo 2, Glittering–bellied Emerald 3, Checkered Woodpecker 2, Rufous Hornero 30, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper 2, Great Kiskadee 9, Gray-breasted Martin 2, Brown-chested Martin 10, White-rumped Swallow 22, House Wren 22, Masked Gnatcatcher 5, Rufous-breasted Thrush 20, Creamy-bellied Thrush 5, Chalk-browed Mockingbird 14, Blue-and-yellow Tanager 2, Golden-billed Saltator 1, European Starling 20, Masked Yellowthroat 4, Black-and-rufous Warbling-finch 9, Double-collared Seedeater 11, Safron Finch 2, Red-crested Cardinal 4, Rufous-collared Sparrow 23, Yellow-winged Blackbird 3, Chestnut-capped Blackbird 2, Bay-winged Cowbird 3, Shiny Cowbird 60, Hooded Siskin 9, House Sparrow 15.

Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve covers more than 800 acres on the bank of the Rio Plata in Buenos Aires. It started as a magnificent promenade where the good people of BA could come to bathe. It lost favour as the water quality in the river deteriorated and swimming fell out of fashion. Landfill and reclamation separated the promenade from the riverbank and subsequent silting gave Nature the chance to colonise and flourish. The reclaimed area became a protected reserve and was awarded Ramsar status in 2005.

The promenade still exists, though it is now over half a mile inland. It makes a fine walk on a warm afternoon, adjacent to the Ave Int. Hernan M. Geralt. For 2kms, the wide pavement looks down on a stretch of marsh and reeds. A few years ago rains would raise the level sufficiently for open water to attract many species of duck, but the water is much reduced now. Only tiny areas at the south-eastern end remain free from reeds but are likely to silt up altogether in the future.

Two gates allow visitors into the reserve. One can be found at each end of the promenade, but the one at the south-eastern end (Google Earth ref; 34°36'59.71"S 58°21'18.78"W) is the main gate by the Visitors’ Centre. The gate at the ferry terminal end of the promenade (at Google Earth ref; 34°35'56.65"S 58°21'44.70"W) is more of a back door and does not always open as advertised.

For more specific details of Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur and the promenade, please refer to the posts below or follow the links;

http://redgannet.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/costanera-sur-reserve-buenos-aires.html

http://redgannet.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/the-promenade-costanera-sur-buenos.html

Visit the dedicated Central and SouthAmerican Page for more posts from Buenos Aires including Reserva Ecologica doRibera Norte and Parque Tres de Febrero.

The Promenade, Costanera Sur, Buenos Aires, November 2012

A few mishaps held me up until midday when I arrived on the promenade at Costanera Sur, hoping to find some ducks. The only real chance of finding any was at the far (south-eastern) end, where there might have been a patch of open water.

The north-western end, close to the ferry terminal, was drier and larger plants, bushes and even a few small trees had colonised.  Picazuro Pigeons were common, but appeared redder than I recalled from a recent trip to Brazil.

On the road side of the promenade is a splendid line of golden-blossomed Tipa trees (or Crying Trees).  Rufous-bellied Thrush and Spot-winged Pigeon were seen in the first tree and Morton was seen under the second. Monk Parakeets and Black-headed (Nanday) Parakeets called and passed over in small flocks. Morton had arrived on the same flight as me and we joined forces to see what we could find.

House Wrens were very common and looked as if they might be maintaining nests in small holes in the brickwork of the wall that runs the length of the promenade. Masked Yellowthroats called from the tufts of Pampas Grass and we quickly found my first lifer of the afternoon. We tentatively identified it as a Golden-browed Warbler, but closer inspection suggested a Crested Doradito without its crest raised.

The area beyond the wall was becoming damper with reeds taking over almost exclusively. This seemed to suit many species of Icterid including Chestnut-winged Blackbird, Unicoloured Blackbird and Yellow-winged Blackbird.

Most of our attention was being directed towards the area beyond the wall, but the promenade itself was very productive. Black and Rufous Warbling-Finches flew back and forth across the wall between the reeds and the orange-blossomed trees and a Campo Flicker was seen digging about around the tree roots. It perfectly matched the fallen blossoms.

Above us, Brown-chested Martins and White-rumped Swallows chased small insects and saw off a Roadside Hawk that passed over. Chimango Caracaras and Southern Caracaras did not come very close, but they are quite distinctive in flight.

 

The pavement was popular with Eared Doves and Guira Cuckoos even patronised the street cafes that operate along promenade.

 

Eventually, we happened upon a small patch of water that had been completely covered by floating weed. Morton was walking along the lower level close to the water which had been the bathing terrace of years gone by. I preferred the higher, but slightly more distant vantage of the promenade. Jacanas and a Spectacled Flycatcher were seen here and we managed to pick out a few Speckled Teal.

 

I want to treat the promenade as a separate entity to the reserve beyond the gate. The reserve has specific opening times and the gates are kept firmly closed until 08.00. The promenade is available for birding at any time and early risers or time restricted birders will find a lot to be going on with here. Morton and I continued into the reserve for the afternoon, but that will be described in a post of its own.

Narrow-billed Woodcreeper

Birds seen; 37

Yellow-billed Teal 6, Great Egret 3,Roadside Hawk 1,Southern Caracara 3,Chimango Caracara 3, Wattled Jacana 2, Picazuro Pigeon 25, Spot-winged Pigeon 2, Eared Dove 80, Nanday Parakeet 30, Monk Parakeet 25, Guira Cuckoo 15, Glittering-bellied Emerald 1, Campo Flicker 1,Narrow-billed Woodcreeper 1, Crested Doradito 1, Spectacled Tyrant 2, Brown-chested Martin 30, White-rumped Swallow 20, House Wren 20, Masked Gnatcatcher 2,Rufous-bellied Thrush 25,Creamy-bellied Thrush 1,Chalk-browed Mockingbird 6, European Starling 30, Masked Yellowthroat 5, Black-and-rufous Warbling-finch 8, Double-collared Seedeater 6, Red-crested Cardinal 2, Rufous-collared Sparrow 15, Unicolored Blackbird 1, Yellow-winged Blackbird 7, Chestnut-capped Blackbird 3, Bay-winged Cowbird 15, Shiny Cowbird 40, Hooded Siskin 4, House Sparrow 40.

Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve covers more than 800 acres on the bank of the Rio Plata in Buenos Aires. It started as a magnificent promenade, but lost favour as the water quality in the river deteriorated and swimming fell out of fashion. Landfill and reclamation separated the promenade from the riverbank and subsequent silting gave Nature the chance to colonise and flourish. Now an Ecological Reserve, it was given Ramsar status in 2005.

The promenade still exists and makes a fine walk on a warm afternoon, adjacent to the Ave Int. Hernan M. Geralt. For 2kms, the wide pavement looks down on a stretch of marsh and reeds. A few years ago rains would raise the level sufficiently for open water to attract many species of duck, but the water is much reduced now. Only tiny areas at the south-eastern end remain free from reeds but are likely to silt up altogether in the future.

Uni-coloured Blackbird

Two gates allow visitors into the reserve. One can be found at each end of the promenade, but the one at the southeastern end (Google Earth ref; 34°36'59.71"S 58°21'18.78"W) is the main gate by the Visitors’ Centre. The gate at the ferry terminal end of the promenade (at Google Earth ref; 34°35'56.65"S 58°21'44.70"W)is more of a back door and does not always open as advertised.

For more posts from Costanera Sur, follow the links below;
http://redgannet.blogspot.com/2011/05/costanera-sur-assessment-on-arrival.html
http://redgannet.blogspot.com/2011/05/costanera-sur-pre-departure-buenos.html

Visit the dedicated Central and South American Page for more from Buenos Aires including, Park Tres de Febrero and Ribera Norte.

Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur

Costanera Sur pre-departure, Buenos Aires, Argentina

I had a plane to catch this morning, so it had to be a very quick flash into Costanera Sur. The Grey-headed Rails were out on the pavement to see if there were any gleanings to be had from the pavement cafes. The gates were shut so I shimmied over the fence and started to explore the long grass and pampas to the left. Rufous-collared Sparrows were feeding in the weeds and Masked Gnatcatchers were especially common this morning.

A Pampas Cavy fed within easy reach of cover and a bright chestnut bird briefly showed, but I was unable to identify it straight away. Southern House Wrens were also very common this morning.

In contrast to the first morning in Buenos Aires, the sky was overcast and the birds were very quiet. The road leading towards the river was not as productive, but then I did have a very strict time limit today and couldn’t afford to linger. The usual suspects, Chalk-browed Mockingbirds, Rufous-bellied Thrush and Rufous Hornero were all seen easily and something spooked the Picazuro Pigeons and upwards of 150 took to the air in a big cloud.

Do Caracaras roost communally? About 20 or so appeared low overhead coming out from the reedbeds. Mostly they were Southern Caracaras with about half a dozen Chimango Caracaras mixed in with them. They all seemed to have emanated from the same place making me think that either there had been something worth scavenging in the reeds, or they were leaving a roost. Caracaras are closely related to falcons but spend more time scavenging than hunting.

The bright chestnut bird showed again and I was able to pin it down as a White-lined Tanager female. This was the third one I had seen although there was no sign of the black male.

The warden’s hut was manned this morning and he had put out a few crumbs for the birds. Bay-winged Cowbirds were quick to take advantage and waited on the ground below until the Chalk-browed Mockingbirds knocked crumbs from the windowsill.

Shiny Blackbirds remained aloof to start with, but soon plucked up the courage to come in closer.

My favourite of the morning were the female/juvenile Golden-billed Saltators. I had seen the splendid male on the first morning, but only briefly and from a distance. The femalesjuveniles were very confiding.

I had to tear myself away and get back, but the warden called out to me as two Orange-backed Troupials came in to feed on a fruiting palm. It was very tempting to push my luck and stay longer, but if I keep my job, maybe I'll come back again (within 15 years this time I hope).

Species seen; 34
Neotropic Cormorant 3, Great Egret 1, Southern Caracara 15, Chimango Caracara 8, Grey-necked Wood-rail 4, Black-backed (Kelp) Gull 12, Grey-headed Gull 8, Picazuro Pigeon 200, Eared Dove 20, Picui Ground Dove3, Monk Parakeet 12, Chequered Woodpecker 3, Rufous Hornero 35, Cattle Tyrant 2, Great Kiskadee 20, Southern House Wren 8, Chalk-browed Mockingbird 35, Rufous-bellied Thrush 20, Masked Gnatcatcher 12, Common Starling 5, House Sparrow 10, Hooded Siskin 6, Tropical Parula 3, Golden-crowned Warbler 1, White-lined Tanager 3, Black and Rufous Warbling-finch 2, Saffron Finch 2, Yellow-billed Cardinal 1, Rufous-collared Sparrow 15, Golden-billed Saltator 3, Bay-winged Cowbird 15, Shiny Cowbird 20, Orange-backed Troupial 2, Solitary Cacique 2.
Costanera Sur is described and directions given at this link. Other Argentinean and South and Central America trip reports can be found on the dedicated  Central and South America Page
The trip finished with 74 species seen, 18 of which were lifers
Costanera Sur pre-departure, Buenos Aires, Argentina. EZE

Costanera Sur, assessment on arrival, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Visiting Costanera Sur Reserva Ecologica this morning, straight from the flight, was to be a quick assessment of the atmosphere there before a rested visit later in the day. Information sheets given to us, contained bold, capitalised warnings recounting recent incidents and advising great caution while in the Argentine capital. Trying to be as discrete as possible, I did not bring my tripod, but refused to be intimidated into not bringing the camera. This proved to be a well-founded obstinacy as the first bird of the morning was a red-crayon, Grey-necked Wood-rail.

I felt very pleased with myself, being able to catch a photo of such a rare and elusive bird, until later, when I discovered how common and approachable they actually are.

For now, still smug, I found a second lifer in the form a a Spectacled Tyrant and I was 2 for 2.

This kind of luck could not continue (I would be hell to live with if it did) and a few more common species were found to the left of the entrance, in an area of long grass and pampas. Eared Doves fed from the ground while Great Kiskadees perched on the edge of a raised, round water tank. Bay-winged Cowbirds looked down from a high snag.

50 meters in from the entrance, is a warden's office and a park map which allowed me to get a mental picture of the reserve. Rufous Horneros, Chalk-browed Mockingbirds and Rufous-bellied Thrushes were easy to find here (actually, they are easy to find everywhere, even from fast travelling buses). Perhaps going to my right may have been the better option with the sun behind me, but instead the birds drew me to the left, facing into a sun which was low in the sky even at 10.00. My eyes were sore after a 13 hour flight from London and dull brown birds would have suited me just now, but an Orange-backed Troupial was the next lifer to sear my retinas. I confess to being ignorant of the bird's status as a lifer at the time. I had seen Troupial, Icterus icterus, before in Brazil, but didn't realise until later that the Argentinian version has been awarded species status as I. croconotus.

 

Single ladies (that is one at a time, not unmarried, though of course the conditions are not mutually exclusive), were among the joggers, walkers and cyclists that frequent Costanera Sur. I took this to be a good reflection of the level of threat that I was likely to encounter here. My thoughts are that single ladies quickly find better places to jog if their safety is at risk (unless of course they are really fast joggers).

Having made my snap assessment, I could have returned to the hotel for a nap and returned later, rested, but the birding was too good for that kind of nonsense, so I continued, with my fourth red-letter bird coming within 100 meters of the entrance. A Green-barred Woodpecker flew in to the trees on my left. It was accompanied by a second bird which I assumed at first was half of a pair. However the second bird was smaller and proved to be a Chequered Woodpecker. There was no way that I could go to bed with all this hot birding action going on around me.

Two little birds that didn't make it onto 10,000 Birds during their wood warbler-fest, a Golden-crowned Warbler and a couple of Tropical Parulas responded well to a bit of "pishing." I was walking along the wide, well maintained road towards the Rio Del Plata, concentrating mostly on the left side where a wide deep ditch was lined either side with trees. A few tiny patches of water in the ditch gave me hope that the reserve had had some rain since GL visited a few weeks ago and found it to be completely dry.

About 400m from the entrance, the road meets the river and turns south-east to skirt along it. There was an opening to access the river bank and I took a quick look into the rushes there to find a small flock of Rusty-collared Seedeaters. The females on their own would have been tricky to identify were it not for the male, he of the rusty collar, popping out for a quick showing.

At the open area by the corner, more lifers were found. A Golden-billed Saltator evaded the camera and niether the Grassland Yellow-finches nor the Spix's Spinetail will appear here until I can get a better picture, but they were delicious additions to my lifer list for the day.

I couldn't help but continue along the road as it ran parallel to the river bank. Another Spectacled Tyrant was seen and Picazuro Doves roosted with Pale-vented Pigeons at the top of a dead tree. Both of the woodpeckers were common and seen frequently. I had hoped to see a Great Grebe out on the estuary, but settled for a few Neotropic Cormorants and some Black-backed and Grey-headed Gulls.  

Further along the road, there is a junction where one fork cuts back inland. There is also a picnic spot here which was over-run with school children on a day-trip. This Red-crested Cardinal did not seem to mind and appeared to think that he might pick up a few scraps from the kids. At the junction, I took the track heading back inland, hoping to find a body of water which the map promised was there, but which GL had missed during his "dry" visit in March. It was still dry on this 3rd week of May, in stark contrast to my previous visit here on exactly the same date, 15 years before. On that occasion there had been plenty of water and a good part of my list then was made up of waterbirds such as Southern Screamer, White-winged Coot, Spot-flanked Gallinule and Rosy-billed Pochard. There was no sign of any such thing today. Nor were there any calls from the reeds or any herons or ducks flying over to betray their presence. The areas enclosed by the roads each has the potential to hold water and are known as Lagunas when they are wet, however, up until now, the roads had been thickly lined with bushes and low trees preventing a view. As I passed along the track leading away from the river, the roadside vegetation thinned and allowed me to look out over a large area of reeds and pampas grass. Despite stopping and scanning for a while I could find only one Black and Rufous Warbling-finch and a Rufous-collared Sparrow.

Two American Kestrels took it in turns to perch atop a small metal tower. As I watched them, a larger shape, higher up, passed through my line of vision. After much deliberation, I have decided on a young Red-backed Hawk, but I am prepared to take advice on this one if anybody has a better suggestion.

It was lunch-time now and the reserva was becoming very busy with joggers, walkers, cyclists and school children. I had reached the alternative entrance at the other end of the sanctuary. Here there is an interpretation centre and toilets, but no sign of lunch. Hungry and by now, obscenely tired, I followed the road that would eventually bring me around in a big circle to where I had started.

A tiny spring was squirting a weak spray of water into the wide low area that runs along the west side of the reserve. Rufous-bellied Thrushes, Rufous-collared Sparrows and a Southern House Wren lurked close to the edge of the shallow puddle that it had created. Hoping that fresh water might attract some other birds, I sat down to wait for a while. In the bush beside me, I noticed a Guira Cuckoo and some Unicoloured Blackbirds.

As I approached the completion of my circle, the habitat changed to pampas grass on both sides of the road. In one small bush, three Masked Gnatcathers formed their own monospecial feeding party (PS indicates that the photo was edited to bring the bird out of the shadows).

There was some very pleasant evening light in the grassy area close to the entrance and I spent a while there watching a flock of about a dozen Guira Cuckoos build up as they arrived, one at a time, to roost close together. A small puddle in a wheel groove attracted Eared Doves to drink and a Rufous Hornero came by for a bath.

My assessment had taken all day and the light was beginning to fade now, so I headed for the exit. As I approached the gate I saw my first lifer of the day again, the Grey-necked Wood-rail. Far from being elusive, this bird proved to be common and confiding. No less than 6 of them were feeding in the open area immediately adjacent to the gate. I stopped at a pavement cafe for a quick bite and they came out through the fence to compete with the city's pigeons, picking for scraps between the tables!

Despite all the warnings, I did not feel threatened during my visit to Costanera Sur with many of the passers-by wishing me a cheery "buen dia" It is about 20 minutes walking from Retiro train station and none of the people that I saw during the day gave me any cause for concern. I later found that the reserve is in an area policed by the navy. There are few routes to escape after a crime, so the level here is low compared to the rest of the city. I guess there is reason behind the warnings though, so please be sensible and discrete.

The hotel concierge can provide directions to get there. To find the north-west entrance, go to Google Earth and cut and paste these coordinates into the search box, 34° 35' 57"S 58° 21' 45"W 

The above map would benefit from being turned through 90°. As it is, the north-west entrance is in the bottom left-hand corner at Accesso Viamonte. The gate is not always opened on time, but scaling the fence here appears to be an acceptable method of entry and exit. Thus the opening times of 09.00 until 17.00 are largely voluntary.

Species seen; 43

Neotropic Cormorant 15, Red-backed Hawk 1, Southern Caracara 9, Chimango Caracara 4, American Kestrel 3, Grey-necked Wood-rail 6, Black-backed (Kelp) Gull 25, Grey-headed Gull 15, Picazuro Pigeon 100, Pale-vented Pigeon 8, Eared Dove 20, Monk Parakeet 45, Guira Cuckoo 15, Chequered Woodpecker 6, Green-barred Woodpecker 10, Rufous Hornero 35, Spix’s Spinetail 1, Small-billed Elaenia 4, Spectacled Tyrant 2, Cattle Tyrant 2, Great Kiskadee 40, Blue and White Swallow 5, Southern House Wren 4, Chalk-browed Mockingbird 50, Rufous-bellied Thrush 40, Masked Gnatcatcher 6, Common Starling 15, House Sparrow 6, Hooded Siskin 25, Tropical Parula 4, Golden-crowned Warbler 3, Black and Rufous Warbling-finch 3, Rusty-collared Seedeater 8, Saffron Finch 2, Grassland Yellow-finch 6, Red-crested Cardinal 8, Yellow-billed Cardinal 1, Rufous-collared Sparrow 35, Golden-billed Saltator 1, Unicoloured Blackbird 5, Bay-winged Cowbird 6, Shiny Cowbird 4, Orange-backed Troupial 1.

Other posts from Buenos Aires can be found at the links below;
http://redgannet.blogspot.com/2011/05/parque-tres-de-febrero-buenos-aires.html
http://redgannet.blogspot.com/2011/05/ribera-norte-buenos-aires-argentina-eze.html
http://redgannet.blogspot.com/2011/05/costanera-sur-pre-departure-buenos.html

Visit the dedicated Central and South America Page for more posts from the region.

Costanera Sur on arrival, Buenos Aires, Argentina